The northern lights are magical, but of course there are plenty of other things to see in Iceland. It has an abundance of powerful and dramatic waterfalls, various geysers and gloopy mud pools, massive glaciers and even a parade of blue, white and black icebergs at Jokulsarlon on the south coast. Scenery changes from barren moonscapes to mossy lava fields, and occasional deciduous forests that in September were showing off their fiery autumn colours. There are the uniquely Icelandic horses that never seem to get around to getting a haircut. And even if they see and do little else, tourists flock to the Blue Lagoon, near the capital Reykjavik, keen to exfoliate and revitalise the skin, in the hope of shedding a few years.